The Lost City of Pompeii

En route from the Amalfi Coast to Tuscany, we stopped at Pompeii to view the ruins of the city destoyed and buried by 13 to 20 feet of ash after Mount Vesuvius erupted in AD 79. Today, 2.6 million tourists visit the site each year and to take a peek at Roman life in the first century, until Mount Vesuvius erupted.

Mount Vesuvius in the distance

When the volcano, located near what is now Naples, erupted, ash and dust poured into the city like a flood and killed 2,000 people. The volcano did not produce lava but instead involved superheated gas and volcanic ash. Ash fall was detected as far away as Africa.

Fifteen hundred (1500) years later, Pompeii was rediscovered and explorers found that most of the objects laying beneath the surface did not deteriorate and instead were well preserved due to lack of air and moisture.  Excavations produced skeletons, buildings, cobblestone streets, pottery, artifacts, mosaic floors - an entire city underground.  

Pompeii was a thriving commerical business center and community until the eruption.  The city includes several restaurants, a food market, baths, a mill, a hotel, a bar, a brothel, an ampitheatre and two theatres and a sophistcated aqueduct system that provided water for the town - even the houses.

We visited Pompeii on a sweltering day in October.  We could have spent days exploring this site but due to the heat and a long drive ahead of us, instead spent about four hours walking around.  We rented audio guides, which helped us navigate the carefully mapped grounds. I highly recommend carrying water and wearing a hat as there is very little shade! When we visited, we paid 11E each to enter the ruins and 10E for two audio guides.

Here are some photos of the ruins. To learn more about Pompeii, click here. Thanks for reading!

A Trip to Poggio Antico in Montalcino

While staying at the lovely Palazzo Ravizza in Siena, the front desk person recommended a visit to Poggio Antico to taste some of Montalcino's famous Brunello wine.  We drove south on SR2 through small villages, enjoying the rolling hills and soft scenery of Tuscany for about an hour.  As we approached Montalcino, the scenery became much more amazing, almost jaw dropping, whichever direction we looked.  After spotting the sign for Poggio Antico, we drove down a long, unpaved cypress-lined driveway and arrived at the 500-acre estate which was spectacular!

We joined a very small tour group (six people) in the winery's office and set off to learn how how wine is produced at Poggio Antico.  The grapes at the winery are of the Sangiovese variety, which are called Brunello in Montalcino.

First stop: choosing the grapes, which go through a three-step pruning process during the growing year. During the third step, staff actually inspect every bunch of grapes and decide which ones will receive the last days of sunshine and nutrition.  We admired the grapes along with a few thirsty bees, and we each tasted one or two, which were absolutely delicious!

Next, we went indoors to learn about how the grapes become wine.  Our guide explained the winery's process for producing its wines which include the following wines:

Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G.

Altero - Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G.

Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G. Riserva

Madre, I.G.T Toscana

Lemartine, I.G.T Toscana

Rosso di Montalcino D.O.C.

We were surprised by the very modern technology in the cellar with its 23 cone-shaped stainless steel tankes with removable lids.  We followed our tour guide up a ladder and she explained the fermentation process in depth. 

After leaving the cellar, we then learned about how the wines are stored, corked, bottled and then stored again. 

At the end of the tour, it was time for the tasting! We headed to the La Bottega di Poggio Antico, a small shop on the propery which serves as a sun-filled tasting room.  Each taste was better than the last, and we bought a special bottle which we recently enjoyed on our first wedding anniversay.

There's a restaurant on the property, with some very amazing views, but we wanted to explore Montalcino and headed into town for some lunch.  After reading reviews about the Ristorante di Poggio Antico after, I wished we had stayed for lunch, what an amazing place. Here's the view.

While in Montalcino, I highly recommend a visit to Poggio Antico.  To learn more, click here. To read more about my travels in Tuscany which include Orvieto, Montalcino and Siena, click here.

Thanks for reading!

Hotel Miramare - Perfect for a Positano Honeymoon!

With the first anniversary of our wedding approaching on September 24, I revisited my honeymoon photos from Positano and decided to blog on our fabulous hotel, where we spent our first five nights as husband and wife. Highly, highly recommend! (To read the full trip report, click here.)

Miramare is the red hotel, center

While researching hotels for our honeymoon, a large balcony with privacy was our number one priority.  After much research, we chose to stay at the Albergo Miramare, specifically in special room 210.  We were not disappointed!

Plenty of room on the balcony!

Upon arrival, a friendly porter with the strength of ten men put our luggage on his back and disappeared down the 100 stairs that led to the hotel from the main road. 

Very friendly people work here!

Nicola at the front desk welcomed us warmly and an iced bottle of champagne awaited us in our room.  Our room was large (by European standards), bright and very spacious.

Our room, taken from the balcony

Almost one whole wall, facing the sea, was glass.  We could lie in bed and hear the ocean, and enjoy the warm breeze at night. 

Beautiful glass doors open to the balcony

Our very private terrace had a table with two chairs and two sunbeds – this is where we spent most of our time, sipping prosecco, reading and enjoying the view.  Spectacular!

We especially loved the large bathroom and shower which overlooked the ocean and the harbor filled with tiny fishing boats and yachts.

Don't worry...no one can see in!

Breakfast on out terrace each morning, overlooking the ocean and the colorful buildings built into the cliff, was incredible!  Breakfast, which was always delivered with a smile, included fresh juice, assorted pastries and croissants, cappuccinos, cheeses, meats, eggs and yogurt.

We also ate breakfast one morning in the hotel’s cheerful breakfast room, which was full of light and overlooked the bay.

Rosita and Nicola catered to our every request, which really made our time at the hotel special.  One late afternoon, we were hungry.  We called the front desk for a snack, and minutes later this beautiful snack arrived!

The Albergo Miramare offered a complimentary boat ride on a boat, O' Sole Mio, which gave us and six other passengers an amazing tour of the coast.  We had so much fun, even stopped to swim in a cave along the way.

View from O' Sole Mio of Positano - incredible!

The location of the hotel was a challenge to the legs but not a problem at all, about 100 steps down from the main central road and 200 steps down to Positano’s beach. Had to work off all of the delicious meals somehow!

For couples looking for a romantic and private escape, I highly recommend the Albergo Miramare.  It was truly an amazing experience and my husband and I look forward to returning someday! Thanks for reading!

Scenes from Capri (September 30, 2011)

We spent the first five days of our Italian honeymoon in Positano, relaxing at the Albergo Miramare, swimming in the Tyrrhenian Sea and enjoying the tastes and sights of the this amazing town.   On Thursday evening, we asked the Miramare's host Rosita to book us a boat trip (50 euros per person) to the Isle of Capri for Friday.  (To read my trip report on my time in Positano, click here.)

The boat, which left from the ferry dock in Positano early in the morning, was comfortable and was not too crowded; there were no more than 20 passengers on board.  An hour later, we arrived at the island of Capri.

As we circled the island's coastline, our captain pointed out spots of interest along the way, including the Faraglioni, three blocks of rocks located off Capri, one of which hosts rare blue-tinted lizards.  

As we approached the Green Grotto, a small cave full of glowing emerald green water, our captain dropped anchor and some passengers (ourselves includes!) too turns jumping off the boat and swimming in the sea.  The water was crystal clear and warm; I wished that there were no other boats around so we could snorkel near the rocks and caves and relax. 

We continued to circle the island but noticed a very long line at the Blue Grotto, the island’s most famous attraction (tickets were 12.50 euros per person) due to its stunning blue waters.  Instead we headed toward Marina Grande so we could dock and leave the boat behind to explore the island on foot.  The beach near the marina was very pretty and later in the afternoon, became very crowded.

The passengers on the boat broke up into separate tour groups but we walked to the local bus stop and waited in 90 degree heat for a bus that never came!  

  

We finally hopped into an open-air taxi up to Anacapri – I loved the taxi ride and the views were phenomenal as we climbed up the winding roads. 

We reached Piazza Vittoria in Anacapri, and sat down at an outdoor café for an overpriced, forgettable lunch (so disappointing to have a lousy meal, I wish I had researched this ahead of time!).  After lunch, we bought tickets to ride the 12-minute long chairlift that brings you just below the peak of Monte Solaro.  We enjoyed checking out the gardens and flowers along the way, and of course, the beautiful views of the island.

 As we were just over 1,900 feet above sea level, the views were incredible!  

It was HOT so after taking a zillion photos, we bought cold drinks at the snack bar and relaxed in the shade before taking the chair lift back down. 

Despite the heat, we walked around Anacapri, checking out the local shops and sights - stopping for some gelato!  

We hopped a very packed local shuttle bus back down to Capri Town, where spent a few minutes peeking at the bars and restaurants.   

From there, we rode the funicular down to Marina Grande, where exhausted, we sat down and ordered two very over-priced beers overlooking the water while waiting for our boat to depart. Thankfully, after boarding, the boat's captain anchored so we could jump in the water again and cool down. 

All in all, Capri is a beautiful island and an interesting experience but it was mobbed with tourists and not very relaxing in the blazing September sun.  I hear the "magic" happens after the sun goes down and the tourists leave for the day.  Maybe next time we'll book a room, find a remote swimming hole and have a more relaxed experience.  Learn more about Capri. 

Where to Next?  My trip report on my upcoming week in Wellfleet, Cape Cod!