Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Scenes from Capri (September 30, 2011)

We spent the first five days of our Italian honeymoon in Positano, relaxing at the Albergo Miramare, swimming in the Tyrrhenian Sea and enjoying the tastes and sights of the this amazing town.   On Thursday evening, we asked the Miramare's host Rosita to book us a boat trip (50 euros per person) to the Isle of Capri for Friday.  (To read my trip report on my time in Positano, click here.)

The boat, which left from the ferry dock in Positano early in the morning, was comfortable and was not too crowded; there were no more than 20 passengers on board.  An hour later, we arrived at the island of Capri.

As we circled the island's coastline, our captain pointed out spots of interest along the way, including the Faraglioni, three blocks of rocks located off Capri, one of which hosts rare blue-tinted lizards.  

As we approached the Green Grotto, a small cave full of glowing emerald green water, our captain dropped anchor and some passengers (ourselves includes!) too turns jumping off the boat and swimming in the sea.  The water was crystal clear and warm; I wished that there were no other boats around so we could snorkel near the rocks and caves and relax. 

We continued to circle the island but noticed a very long line at the Blue Grotto, the island’s most famous attraction (tickets were 12.50 euros per person) due to its stunning blue waters.  Instead we headed toward Marina Grande so we could dock and leave the boat behind to explore the island on foot.  The beach near the marina was very pretty and later in the afternoon, became very crowded.

The passengers on the boat broke up into separate tour groups but we walked to the local bus stop and waited in 90 degree heat for a bus that never came!  

We finally hopped into an open-air taxi up to Anacapri – I loved the taxi ride and the views were phenomenal as we climbed up the winding roads. 

We reached Piazza Vittoria in Anacapri, and sat down at an outdoor cafĂ© for an overpriced, forgettable lunch (so disappointing to have a lousy meal, I wish I had researched this ahead of time!).  After lunch, we bought tickets to ride the 12-minute long chairlift that brings you just below the peak of Monte Solaro.  We enjoyed checking out the gardens and flowers along the way, and of course, the beautiful views of the island.

 As we were just over 1,900 feet above sea level, the views were incredible!  

It was HOT so after taking a zillion photos, we bought cold drinks at the snack bar and relaxed in the shade before taking the chair lift back down. 

Despite the heat, we walked around Anacapri, checking out the local shops and sights - stopping for some gelato!  

We hopped a very packed local shuttle bus back down to Capri Town, where spent a few minutes peeking at the bars and restaurants.   

From there, we rode the funicular down to Marina Grande, where exhausted, we sat down and ordered two very over-priced beers overlooking the water while waiting for our boat to depart. Thankfully, after boarding, the boat's captain anchored so we could jump in the water again and cool down. 

All in all, Capri is a beautiful island and an interesting experience but it was mobbed with tourists and not very relaxing in the blazing September sun.  I hear the "magic" happens after the sun goes down and the tourists leave for the day.  Maybe next time we'll book a room, find a remote swimming hole and have a more relaxed experience.  Learn more about Capri

Where to Next?  My trip report on my upcoming week in Wellfleet, Cape Cod! 


  1. we were there five years ago in Late October and it was cold and too wind to ride up the top of Anacapri... it was beautiful and quiet... no one was around! Maybe some day you can go back in a different season... it was so beautiful and we got a taste of life minus the tourists... your pictures are lovely!

  2. Thanks for your comment, Michele! I would love to revisit Capri during the off season and really experience the island. It really was so beautiful!

  3. I love all of the ancient history in Italy!I am just absolutely fascinated by Rome Italy tours. I cannot WAIT to go there one day!

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